Things to Do in Almaty in May

May is when the slopes above Medeu ice rink turn emerald green without the summer crowds. The trail to Furmanov Peak starts 30 minutes from downtown but feels like the wilderness. Wild tulips bloom at 2,000 m (6,560 ft). The only sounds are cowbells from summer pastures. Morning hikes beat the afternoon storms. You'll share the trail with more shepherds than tourists.

The lake road opens reliably by May 10th after winter closures. The water reflects impossible shades of turquoise from glacial melt. Tour vans stop at the Soviet-era observatory at 2,510 m (8,235 ft). The air tastes thin and metallic. Early morning visits catch the peaks mirrored well. By afternoon the wind chops the surface into diamonds.

May markets overflow with spring produce. Mountains of strawberries from Taraz. Bundles of wild garlic gathered in the mountains. The first shashlik of the season sizzling over coals. The dried apricot sellers from the Fergana Valley set up near the eternal flame. Their samples taste like honeyed sunshine. It's where pensioners argue over over tomato prices and students grab 200 tenge snacks between classes.

The cable car runs until 11 PM in May. You can watch the city lights flicker on while the mountains behind fade from gold to purple. At the top, the 372 m (1,220 ft) viewing platform catches valley breezes that smell like pine and hot metal from the city below. The Beatles statue faces west toward the sunset. Locals queue for photos as the light turns magic.

May mornings at the mosque smell like wet marble and rose water from worshippers' hands. The adjacent bazaar spills into the street with vendors selling fresh nan bread, still warm from tandoor ovens. Kurida horse sausage challenges adventurous eaters. The call to prayer at 5:17 AM (in May) echoes off the mountains. Set the alarm.